Ragusa

9/11 On the Road Again - Ragusa

Another lazy start (Jeff had a sore head - last of the bloody Etna Wine!) with all the usual simplicities, cuppa tea on the beach with the ocean becalmed, the water crystal clear, the fish van, (skipped the bread man today & instead picked up some gorgeous pinky golden little fat fish) packing up, saying long goodbyes to the bonfire crew.  Bill chased us out with €10 each to “waste on something NOT sensible.” Unprompted, they both handed over the cash to Jeff for their iPod nano/mini savings accounts, before we took off for Ragusa via the supermarket.

Ragusa is another spectacular sandstone Baroque town straddling an enormous limestone chasm; the old town on one hilltop and the new one perched on an adjacent one, built after a devastating flood in late 1600s. 

Our destinations when there were simple - wander the quiet narrow maze of curved arched streets, stand at the Duomo’s view and make for the cherry on top - a gelateria.

Research took us to probably our best European ice-cream yet. The flavours were unbelievably rich and exotic, especially the strong licorice and the torrone was stupendously packed with crushed nuts & pistachio.  

A cold wind had us racing back to Ed’s warm belly where we settled in for a comfy drive to Villa Di Romani Casale at Piazza Armerina.  

Rural Sicily 

It was time to be had as we pulled into the carpark too late in the day to see the ruin. A chap whizzed up, smoke in mouth and ushered us into the open park asking €5 to sleep the night.  We handed it over….finding out a few moments later that the park was free.  Hope he enjoyed his beer & pizza whilst we smacked our lips on our ravioli left overs!

A game of Sleeping Queens and a bit of Indiana Jones took us up to lights out.

San Croce Camerina

4/11 Camping Luminosa d2

Jeff awoke at 5 and lay in reading “Enduring Love” (Ian McEwan), Jen out for a run amongst the paper, plastic, & dog poo and eventually Jeff strolls out for a clamber along the point to the old ruins, dodging the beer bottles and the thorny coastal heath, to find the ruins to not be too old (<200yrs) but around the corner a covey stretch of lapping Mediterranean coast with the odd beach house and fisherfolk.  Hard to get motivated to tachycardia in such a relaxing environment but a few sets of push ups did the job.  First swims for the old folk - the water is cool but bearable for a hang about and a float, followed by a cold beach side rinse off in the shower and then back to find the Squids ensconced in their books, but ready to head out for some beach play.     

The bread van arrived with a barp at 0800, the kids lined up with the wide-bodied Germans and  bought some hefty rolls, onto which we piled jam and peanut butter and cheese and stuff while Jen enjoyed her regulation cardboard + natural yoghurt + milk.

Maths games and revision followed by another beach play, this time with kids new Italian friends Monica and Roberta, and a cool dog called Pina who only speaks Italian but is very obedient when eventually taught not to stand/walk/sit on the sand constructions.

The parents wash clothes, string a long line for drying, clean out the school bag and other not for return to Oz stuff jamming up the site bins, discuss the plans for the next few weeks, and then crank the BBQ for Pranza - fish foils filled with mackerel, spices, cucumber, tomato, parmesan and nuts which was transferred into exotic burgers sin bones by the loving mumma.

The kids do their writing tasks and wash bikes, dad patches a puncture, another swim and a lie about reading, a coffee and a chat, more sorting and chucking, then a scotch on the beach as the sun sets.  Not so colourful today with the overcast conditions but then a lovely pink afterthought (not the scotch, the photo doesn’t lie, much).  

A chat with Liz and Bill our UK/Glaswegian friends, a last play for the kids with their new friends who leave tonight to be home for school tomorrow, the kids have a final swim in the very near dark, and then a light dinner followed by 2 games of “Sleeping Queens”, 1 to Kel, 1 to Jen, and one big giggling fit to Wil.

5/11   d3 Camping Luminosa

We set off on the bikes early morning to “fall in love with the behind scenes” whilst exercising but this was the only time we have ever come back depressed having ridden through 1½ hours of rubbish, endless plastic veggie & fruit hot houses, as many empty and derelict as full, dirtying up every millimeter of land and spilling right into the seaside for miles, wrecking even the usually untouchable view of the coast.  Around all this are houses, flats & buildings in various states of decay from premature & unfinished, to stillborn and abandoned to sorry, lifeless skeletons.  We passed a well nourished, well dressed family crowding into their BMW on their way to school/work and wonder how they live amongst the extraordinary trash & ugliness.

We arrived home flat but were buoyed by the beauty of the fresh skinned kids, the ‘Daddy Pingu’ new day chatter of our fellow travellers and the neighbouring ocean - just look outward toward Africa & listen to the gentle swishing rhythm and gentle swishing sound of the ocean at the end of the camp…..and the fish man (bought some fresh tuna steak for lunch) and the veggie man (some tomatoes, lettuce, parsley and bananas) and the bread man who attracts the biggest and most enthusiastic crowd - there’s even a bit of pushing and shoving in the queue!  Today,we bought some marmalade filled croissants (or cornettos) and a delicious plump spinachy pastie thing.  None of this was cheap however.  These deserving entrepreneurs have a captive market.

Bill showing the bread guy where to park

fish man

We bought some internet time and Jeff took some 4 hours or more to wade through ferry websites again, some no longer in operation or incomplete making necessary challenging phone calls with non-English speakers whilst sifting through conflicting time table information.  Finally, the ferries from Sicily to just north of Rome and then across to Barcelona were booked!!

The kids did some more exam revision for maths and then some research and writing.

Several swims, plays with Pina and chats with other older campers filled out a very relaxed and enjoyable day.  At the peak of the sun & heat, we collected inside away from the flies for our tuna steaks cooked in olive oil & garlic with a side salad and then a few card games. 

The English folk invited us to their Guy Fawkes beach bonfire celebrations after nightfall where we lapped up conversation with a young Welsh couple returning home soon, with a pair of retired primary school maths teachers and our lovely Bill & Liz.  The kids thought we came home prematurely!

Linda, Wil, Kel, Jen Liz, John

6/11 d4 by the beach 

HAPPY BIRTHDAY UNCLE MICK!

Having checked out the headland the previous day, Jeff dragged his bride across the thorns & shattered beer bottles to a spot of sand on a high windy plateau where they executed their 10BX routine staring out across the calm clean water.  We inspected the ruins afterward and then woke Kel to join us for a pre-breakfast bob in the Mediterranean.

Our phone call to Uncle Mick brought tears to our homesick hearts as we heard the girls squealing and clambering all over him trying to get in a “g’day”.

In the quiet of our serene campsite that we share with largely over 60 yr old full-bellied Brits and Germans, the day was peppered with swims, handstands, paper plane making, maths, writing, washing up bits of Ed (as we do) and more swims.

Another superb sunset with a scotch, followed by a plank in the sand (3:35 Uncle John!), sandwiches for dinner and early to bed for a read.

Pina

D5 by the beach

Rain over night and into the morning so flicked the run, had a slow breakfast, helped the kids with finishing school (only a week or so left now), and hung out the wet towels and ground mat in the sporadic sun.  Then late morning as the clouds passed away to the east we both went for separate runs through the fields of plastic and litter, followed by swims, lunch (pasta with tuna and anchovies and stuff from the vegie van), then more reading, paper plane and jewelry making, games (Bill and Liz gave the kids Battleships and Sleeping Queens has been a big hit of late, thanks Alex), a big load of washing, another coffee for the olds and a  swim for the kids, a beer with yet another lovely sunset, filled up with water (the camp hasn’t had potable water for 4 days, thankfully Bill gave us some for our teas and coffees today), and headed out in the dark (not so ugly when the lights are off) for our pizza joint and a feast by the sea.

8/11 D6 at the Beach

Up slowly with the sun and the barp barp and the “pane, pane, BONJOURNO!”  Kel rushed up for the promised chocolate brioche to supplement our cardboard.  Jeff wolfed it down having been for a swim across the bay & a run back to camp.

An easy day of school, sunshine, paper planes, swimming, handstands, jewelry making and passing conversations followed.  Wil and Jen took a bike ride to the local shops for milk (& snuck in a taste of an arancine) and under the warm sky, Jen took off for a pre-lunch run.

Biker Bill

paper plane testing

Our late lunch off egg & lettuce rolls fueled more swims & handstands before the kids helped gather firewood for the evening beach bonfire - one of our most special European memories to date.  

Having sat motionless for another fantastic sunset, we moved our chairs a few feet across to join Bill & Liz, John & Linda, Andrew & Tiffany around the fire for chillie con carne, lasagne (cooked by a Welshman) and fire baked jacket potatoes.

Wil's 12th Birthday, Noto

3/11 WIL’S 12TH BIRTHDAY

A quiet night, a great sleep, then a 10BX (Jeff hurts bad trying to keep up with Jen), Kel does some too.

Wil only woken by Kel & us at 0745, the best birthday sleep in he recalls - surely a sign of age.

Brekkie of cereal & ham n smoked bocconcini cheese rolls as the phone calls, e-mails and texts from family rolled in.

No school today, instead the priorities have us drive to Noto for best ice-cream in the world x 2 - the Lonely Planet says it’s the best gelato in Italy, so we reckon that makes it world best!  They recommend to shops.

We find ourselves in a beautiful Baroque town - the honey coloured sandstone a standout feature, especially against the bluest of skies.  Wandered among the Saturday strollers - the young couples splendidly clad in the latest fashion, the families with their indulged offspring, well cushioned, 1 riding an electric mini Ducati with trainer wheels, the dapper older gents (jacket and tie) moving arm in arm chatting in an animated and amorous way, breaking their arm locks regularly to gesticulate, doing that signature Italian gesture in which they shrug their shoulders up and inward and extend their upturned palms as if to say “that’s the way it is, what can you do?!” 

The town (the part we saw) was very well kept, no litter and the baroque stone buildings were sparklingly clean.  Apparently it’s only a young town having been completely rebuilt after a decimating earthquake, in the 1600’s!  It’s only about 100 yrs older than white Australia.

We found the 1^st Lonely Planet Gelateria and had a 3 scooper, and it was the very best!  The dense dark chocolate is pocked with orange rind, the pistachio is ½ nuts, the ricotta, the ginger almond, the lemon is enough!!!  Sat on the steps of the cathedral enjoying our treat for Wil’s birthday, establishing our degrees of Gelati Relatedness (Jen as usual is not related to any of us) and agreed that after a short wander we would find the other Gelateria and have a crack at it.

It was a very short wander but we were up to the challenge - but only a 2 scooper this time.  And again, it was heavenly - the Mandarin, the strawberry, the yoghurty one.

1.5 hours drive on past Ragusa (plan to return here) and the plastic farms partitioned with stone wall,

to the beachside campsite “Luminosa” in the town of San Croce Camerina, recommended by our French Canadian friends Jacques and Simone.  There we found a white sandy beach, looking southwest across the calm Mediterranean, scanning earnestly for a glimpse of Africa - must be too far away.  The kids got to work in the sand, the parents had a coffee and a chat and a wander around the headland, and the sun headed towards the horizon amping the colours for our special pleasure.

Much needed hot showers and a dress up (how novel!) before we head out in Ed to complete the boy’s special day - Pizza at local “Holiday Pizza” by the sea.  Opted for the takeaway and sat on the seawall enjoying the sounds and smells of the sea and the grand tastes of the Neapolitan and Capriciosa.

Back “home” Wil and Kel enjoyed watching his Leonardo Di Vinci DVD and then we all read ourselves to sleep, content that we’d made the best of Wil’s 12^th Compleanno. 

¥ Thanks μ

What is a Birthday?
To some, a birthday is a day on which to fill up to fat. To others, a birthday is a day on which to acquire some great presents.
Maybe it is a day to try new food, or to be with one’s family, or to see a lovely place, or to see your family happy
But to everyone, a birthday is a day on which to progress to new heights, to become a year older. For me, it was all of those things.
A day for 5 scoops of gelato, a huge pizza and a great breakfast.
A day on which I got some awesome presents. A day when I was given a too-small belt, but it fitted Kel. I was given new responsibilities.
It made me smile to see you happy. Thankyou for that special day...
3/11/2012

Me
12 year old Me
Wilsen Conn, A happy Soul in Eddie

Syracuse

2/11  Syracuse

Even though the campsite reminded us so much of home, the sounds were all different with minimal bird song and stray dogs howling all night.

All of us had sore thighs from yesterday’s efforts, so we instead woke to a cuppa tea under the gums rather than exercise.  The views across the top of the village of Castilglione di Sicilia to Etna were breathtaking.

Once fed, the kids started their revision for year end maths exams in 2 weeks and then we set off for a campsite in Syracuse, the ancient Greek town that once rivaled Athens.  The drive reminded us of Spain with massive roads & tunnels and enormous concrete skeletons, only half built then abandoned, and littered across a wasteland cluttered with rubbish and plastic.  Rounded Etna to our west and saw extra smoking craters, bidding it good bye.

We could see the finger of Ortygia (old town of Syracuse)….. 

but were met with blocks & washouts and so were sent along several detours on pocked roads into run down sprawling dirty suburbs where so much seems started but unfinished.  

Plastic Farming

We pulled into a polluted CONAD carpark to top up groceries and then followed TomTom to a campsite, not a sosta, with much needed laundry facilities.  BUT…… it turned out to be a grungy concrete parking lot with not even a loo….but a few precious leafy gums down the end where we parked.  Doggy & scary so often sits alongside extraordinary history & beauty. It can be tiring and we’re getting homesick.

So we chugged about making a healthy late lunch feast of mince & spinach roll with garlic in the BBQ, as well stirfried vegies, before tying up the laces to walk into the old town. Cars with their bumpers taped up, or not and just scraping & screeching along the road, their shapes dented and mangled beyond recognition drive alongside an abundance of Audis, BMWs and Mercs with highly coiffeured drivers pressed to mobiles and often chubby bespectacled kids eating in the back seat.  The littered streets are laced by top fashion boutiques & trattorias full of consumers.  A chalk and cheese that confuses Jen in particular.

Reaching the little finger of land poking out into the harbour, historical Ortygia, one is met by the Tempio di Apollo, a Greek temple dating from the 6^th century BC.  

ex-Greek Temple of Apollo

All that remains are bits of massive columns that Wil reckons fell away more easily than the Roman stuff because they didn’t use concrete.  Past more incredible shops and small dingy alleys like those in Morocco, we found the beautiful B&B that houses the most ancient Miqwe (Jewish baths) in Europe.  They were only discovered again 15 years ago when the developers of the current very ritzy B&B were excavating.

Jewish Baths

Apparently, the Jews carved out the baths in 70 AD on the springs of an ancient Greek well. But when the Spanish Inquistion of Ferdinand & Isabella cleared them out in the 1490s, the Jews covered them up.  When the Spanish fortified the island, they blocked the springs natural drainage channels and so now the hotel pumps all day, turns off at night during which time the water rises to knee level and then the morning sees the drainage start over.  Jewish women had to cleanse here in the cold & dark, naked in the foetal position after menstruation, childbirth and before matrimony.  The water is so pure that the baths look empty until you see the faint surface ripple as the springs bubble gently. The kids were confused about why the women were perceived to be dirty at these normal biological times.

last wear for those pants

So everyone has been here from the Carthaginians, the Normans, the Arabs, the Romans, it was once the capital of the Byzantines before the move to Turkey, the Spanish, the Poms….. With the most spectacular blended architectural piece in our opinion being the glorious honey & cream coloured Cathedral with it’s Spanish facade and a most magnificent Greek columned shell.  Great people such as Archimedes, Plato & Cicero hung around here too.

Syracuse Cathedral with ancient Greek Pillars

We popped through onto the Passeggio and watched an incredible sunset eating our first Sicilian specialty, an ice-cream hamburger in honour of Wil’s birthday tomorrow, whilst gazing at the large Greek fortress that caps the island.  First one takes a large sweet brioche dusted with icing sugar, cuts it in half and stuffs in enormous scoops of gelati.  Wil chose tiramisu gelati…. and couldn’t finish it!

Syracuse sunset

not me Phil, sorry

Gelato Burgers - let the birthday celebrations begin!

We all enjoyed walking some calories and indigestion off on the way home (2-3km) to Ed where we “wipe washed” and sank into our books.