Erice and Trapani

19/11 ERICE

On the road again to Erice, our last Italian touristy stop.  It’s a tiny stone medieval town 800m above Trapani, the port town from where we leave Sicily on tomorrow’s ferry.  We’ve been looking for the last week from El Bahira campsite - it’s beckoning wonderful castled silhouette, fairy night-lights and dancing cloud veil as it rests high on a plateau behind San Vito’s headland. 

In the past the Elymirians lived here but it was built up to an impressive & beautiful fortress by the Normans in the 10-12 hundreds.  Now, it’s all about exquisite views over wild coast, Trapani’s busy port, salt pans & shimmering salt heaps, changing cloud blankets & lights, spectacular photography, dinky alleys, bad trinket shops and endless really, really good pasticcerias, some in convents, making unbelievable almond biscuits, cakes, latte di mandorla (almond milk) & insanely magnificent crunchy fresh ricotta filled cannoli.

Except for the town centre, the place was fast asleep such that from every open enticing aromatic doorway was sung “Bon Giorno! Cappuccino? Cannoli??”

We gave in….twice...the first sampling 5 different almond cakes, almond milk, hot chocolate and coffee and the second, 3 different types of arancine.  The busiest aspect of the town were the multitude of chiesa (15 churches in this tiny place), the bells ding-donging all the time and stray dogs and cats under and on everything.

Darkness & fog swept in at about 1700hrs settling us into Ed in our sosta (night park) for the usual.  We’ll have plenty of fuel in the tank for a grueling last Italian bike ride.  If ‘game’ and the weather permits, we’ll fly back down the switchbacks… and then UP, UP, UP.

Our now homesick spirits were buoyed by texts from Uncle Mike, Grandad, RSA family & a call to Grumma (thanks Mary for providing the talking anaesthetic to help free the Italian splinter!) and news about the Castile Street neighbourhood.

20/11

A brilliant quiet, flat (ie on level ground) night’s sleep on the edge of the world looking over the lights of Trapani from beneath the medieval towers of Erice.

Hearing the patrol of the circling Carabinieri, we hauled out of our cozy cocoons tag teaming on one of the best rides of the year.  The views back to San Vito Lo Capo, the morning air crisp and clear after the rain, the morning sun radiating a cozy warmth, the glorious curving rode relatively traffic free, and the persistent gradient - splendid.

Back home to dueling card kids, we savoured every mouthful of breakfast as well as a second cuppa amongst the swirling clouds.  Sometimes, we could see through them over the coast and sometimes, no further than one another.  Our laziness was contrasted against the crazy paper plane throwing bonanza enjoyed by the squids in the fog.

Roused ourselves to take a last walk through the Porta Spada (the site of a massive slaughter in the war of the Sicilian Vespers (1200’sAD) when the locals deposed the French colonists), finding a most peaceful scene of Medieval construction, silently cloaked in light fog.  Through the gate and onto the edge of the cliff the sun smashed through and the views were again spectacular.

After some slow family time chatting and cuddling we got back into Ed knowing that we were finally leaving behind the beautiful villages of Europe.  Wil is determined to come back and base himself in London so he can do lots more exploring.  Kel not so sure.

Slowly wound our way down the steep switchback hill to Trapani, a port city, “once the rival of Venice,” known for it’s ugly urban jam as well as the dominance of the mafia here.  Also known for it’s small pretty baroque Centro Storico.  

Navigated the unruly and impatient traffic to the car park close to the port and set off on foot (definitely not game/stupid enough to take the kids cycling in these Italian streets) to find the ferry terminal and check in.  Behind us Erice was (as so often) buried under a heavy grey cloud but down here the sun shone. A cool sea breeze wafted the stink of fishing docks and cats’ pee away and we soon identified the well recommended “Angelino’s” restaurant where the Cannoli is “world’s best.”  Continuing through the Centro Storico just as the peace of siesta started , we found ourselves heading down a skinny sickle shaped peninsula, with the short avenues to left and right opening the ocean vistas with wheeling seabirds and giant cumulous clouds skudding by.

More stray dogs and cats than people on the extensive docks, filled with small fishing boats.  Think we could get used to this Siesta Forte - the Sicilians do a 4 hr break - the Spaniards only did 2.  But by the time you close up shop, drive home and eat lunch it would be almost time to go back again if it was only 2 hrs.

We checked in at the Grimaldi office, relieved to find we are at the right place on the right day and there will be a ferry big enough to hold Ed departing tonight, then headed back to Angelino’s for a simple Sicilian feast - Piatta 1: Arancine, Piatta 2: Cannoli - not just any Cannoli - a giant biscuity shell filled with sweetened Ricotta with choc chips that for once this year had Wil asking Jeff to help him finish his.  Topped off with a cappuccino/hot choc we rolled out “full up to fat” and covered the rest of the still closed up Centro Storico, lined with designer clothes shops, stopped for a play in the park where there was also a “zoo” and then caught the Ed Express to the beach on the northern side of the peninsula to watch the sunset and play some beach games.  

Foiled by the rain we sat in Ed, had a pasta left over dinner and then drove back to the port park through the now alive and pumping streets of the old town.   Settled in for a short kip before boarding at 11 but Wil was too excited and the olds were filled with trepidation about all sorts of things, including the concern with having drugs planted by mafia under Ed to be trafficked to Roma.  Jeff did the torch search under Ed (twice) and at 11 we woke the kids and trundled down the road in the rain where we found a huge “Catania” looming above us, back door down awaiting us.  The revved up Wil talked our ears off with unending questions that ended in frustration from his parents who asked him kindly to return to his book.  We waited, watching all manner of vehicle come off the Catania (it has come from Tunisia) and finally called forward, we edged Ed up the ramp obliquely to protect his bottom (saw quite a few crunches getting off) and then set off with our bags of goodies, kids in pajamas to find our cabin.  It was clean, 2 double bunks, a shower and toilet (woo hoo!!!), and a porthole.  Tried in vain to settle the kids to sleep - their excitement now off the scale, but soon (1am) we felt and heard the engines rumble up and with the vibrations and then the smooth gentle roll of the Mediterranean swell we all descended to a well needed sleep bidding farewell to Sicily.  Strange, the roof is so far above the bed - one can get into bed without hitting one’s head!

San Vito Lo Capo

13/11 d2 at El Bahira, San Vito Lo Capo

What a wonderful sleep!

Keen to see the exquisite rocky coast, we left our babes and snuck away for a bike grind  initially along the coast with very Arabic blue & sandy colours and flavour influences marked by abundant kebab rooms alongside the typical Italian bars & gelaterias.  Life was just starting with the bars serving their wonderful cafe and the smells of cornetti torturing us as we whizzed past aiming for the orange & green rocky, oddly carved peaks of the adjacent Riservo dello Zingaro.  We passed inviting spacious looking white rancheros that could be in Spain or Mexico, their gardens decorated with gorgeous arrangements of cacti and large covered stone porches looking over a still, vast Mediterranean.  Sheep with fluffy coats & tails and skinny cows wander the country lanes.  Higher up there is not much but addictive views making turning around really hard.  We’ll come again tomorrow.

Back at camp we file in as streams of young healthy, largely German rock climbers and walkers stream out in pursuit of their rigorous cliffs and divers, loaded up with equipment head toward the spectacular blue ocean.

Our day grooved along so slowly and was wonderfully healing.  Kel & Jen worked first on all the slightly raggedy bits of the BK’s anatomy with Glen’s brilliantly equipped sewing kit, the boys watched some climbers, we cut nails and pushed back cuticles, Kel set up “The Three Broomstiks Cafe” (with pistachio & blue cornflour eggs; vanilla & marmalade eggs and rose water almond & lime eggs to name a few of the exotic menu items) at which Jen & Wil dined.  Jeff & Wil read and we culled our 14,000 photos to about 700, beginning our half hour slide show preparation for the interested few at home.

A simple lunch at 1630 of cornbread, veggies & olive paste filled us to fat and we slid down the other side of the day with darkness now coming at about 1700.  The kids rock hopped around the climbing wall watching the German athletes and then finished off with a twilight skate on the tennis courts, watched by the adults with the dregs of Etna wine in hand (can’t wait for a real, full bodied delicious Australian red).

Feeling profoundly lazy, we all settled in for a movie night and slept like babes thereafter.

14/11 d3 beneath the cliffs

The second day riding is always even better than the first in a new location.  Our resistance training was offered by a relentless early morning wind as we wound higher than yesterday, leaving behind civilization, hearing just our heaving breath, the birds and the wind.

A hot shower and 2 bowls of cereal later, we rolled into another slow day similar to yesterday, the only additions being another clean up of Ed inside & out and an evening viewing of our documentary called “Living Stone” about Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia in Barcelona.  It was such an exhilarating film where architects, stone masons, model designers, historians & artists from around the world over 3 generations have lovingly worked on something unique and spectacular together.  What was striking was their moist eyes and smiles when describing the profound enjoyment of their life’s work.

15/11 d4 San Vito Lo Capo

The moody skies made a trip around the tip of San Vito Lo Capo breathtaking. We still can’t quite understand why this area of Sicily, easily it’s most beautiful, unlike the rest of the island is rubbish free - maybe the mafia bosses have homes here? We stocked up on drinking water (first time this year!) but just a few fresh groceries (exhausting Ed’s extensive pantry now that we’re on the home run) on the way out of camp and drove our early morning bike route in the hopes of walking in the Riserva dello Zingaro, Sicily’s only and Italy’s most beautiful national park…..and it didn’t disappoint.  Free of summer crowds & sun-lovers, we had the place almost completely to ourselves.  Apparently there are about 40 bird species & 700 Mediterranean plant species including the rare Bonelli eagle (that we didn’t see) lushly occupying the wild coast line with its hidden coves of white pebbles and gel toothpaste blue water.  Some plant species are unique to this stretch of coast making this a truly wild & natural NP like those we love & miss back home.

Wil’s emphatic utterances of not taking his togs because it’s cloudy and cold were gleefully abandoned at the second beach where three Connberries stripped to undies delighting in the azure waters.  Mumma readied the Moroccan mint & licorice tea in our orange German ‘furnace’ (as Kel calls it) with almond, marmalade & ginger dunking biscotti and dried chick peas (or ‘cat’s piss’ as Jeff calls them - all the more for us!).  

Dried off in the sun with some vigorous calisthenics, we headed back to Ed, getting the fright of our lives as we approached from below.  When we left Ed he was parked bottom to the cliff (big bum actually a bit out over the sea!), handbrake well deployed, right in front of a decrepit old motorhome.  As we rounded a headland on our way back we looked up to see the decrepit one standing alone - no Ed!!!  Had the brake failed and he’d fallen into the sea?!  Jeff noticed it but said nothing to the others as he didn’t want to panic them.  Jen also noticed but said nothing for the same reason.  Shared panic helps nobody.  Upped the pace a little, rounded another bend and there he was, right where we left him, the decrepit one had been moved 200m back up the road to a more level spot.

They say San Vito Lo Capo goes off in summer and whilst still 21 degrees, it’s practically dead now so our search for aranchine was unfulfilled….and then around the corner, a gelateria!  Shared “taste for taste” the stupendous textures & flavours which carried us through the rest of the day of skating, playing with the stray cats (especially cute Licorice) & feathering our nest back home before more cards, a ‘woggie’ dinner of massive bocinccini, salami, artichoke, capsicum, chestnut paste & Sicilian corn bread.  

Another spectacular sunset highlighting the points & delicious shapes of the offshore Egadi archipelago …..some internet research (Tassie is ~ 2.5 x bigger than Sicily) and bedtime stories.

16/11 d5 San Vito Lo Capo

Our 10BX routine was performed on the tennis courts overlooking our island dotted Mediterranean bay.  Toward the end we were joined by our little people on skates.  After our outdoor “hot” shower (that only partially works if you blow & thump the hot water key box whilst holding your tongue to the left and stand on your R leg), we took cuppa #1 down to the skaters to watch the new tricks before our favourite time of day, breakfast over which we discussed Leonardo Di Vinci’s family background (he was illegitimate) and his genius in describing and modeling cardiac function 500 years before real demonstrative technology existed to show it.

We hung our threadbare but fresh smelling washing out in the sun, tinkered with Ed, played with the cats fashioning pine cone balls on strings for the kittens to chase, skated some more and had another cuppa.

Lunch = curried egg sandwiches + fruit and nuts, more play with the kittens, rotating the drying clothes into the sun and folding away the done ones (these well used clothes might just see the year out), then a short bike ride past the cliffs dotted with energetic climbers catching the afternoon rays, to a beautiful white smooth pebble beach with the turquoise Med lapping calmly.  

There we swam as the sun set over the Trapani/Erice bloomph, Jen meandered and crouched about marveling at the rolled smooth stones of all colour and shape, Jeff attempted some meditation, and the kids built pizza ovens out of the biggest boulders they could carry.  A few other revelers joined us to quietly watch the days end and bathe in the sea, and we were reminded again that this for us is the most beautiful part of Europe we’ve seen - for us it’s nature un-man-mangled that turns the crank.  Comparisons are best avoided but we did note that there would have been 20+ places around Australia that we enjoyed this much - homesickness is building!

17/11 d6 San Vito Lo Capo

The day started with a spectacular early run for the olds - went the other way from camp, accompanied joyfully the whole way by one of the stray mutts of the area.

Breakfast was delayed as we were summoned to the skating rink to check out the new tricks. So with body tingling after a shower and warm tea in hand we inspected the skills with awe.

Following a breakfast at 1000 (we’re all still relishing in a change to our morning routine ‘sans’ school!  Woo-hoo!), mother & son took a bike ride into San Vito Lo Capo township for bread & cheese…and arancini.  Finally successful with FOUR glorious fatty delights wrapped carefully on top of the other shopping and placed like fragile glass in the backpack, we set off home.....via a secret sneaky extra cafe stop arancini for the shoppers! 

Careful not to disturb the booty, Mumma rode home with a poker back spine to father & daughter who’d managed to secure our remaining Spain camping plans in Ed as well as squeezing in a few card games.  Jeff’s shoulders hung in dejection having been thrashed again by Lady Fortuna Kel at her game Sleeping Queens.

Unable to wait another second with the wee balls’ greasy aroma filling Ed, we sat to the delicacies before taking a bike ride to the fabulous waters of our home beach.  The kids worked on a fish catcher (never put to the test owing to advancing inclement weather) and the olds lay in the sun.

So the sunny day was slowly passed with cat play, washing Ed’s roof and hooking into an enormous lunch/dinner of chicken korma & rice.

Another skate, more fluffing photos and a family movie was all the remaining hours allowed……..Aahhh.

18/11 d7 at San Vito o Capo - Rained all day

Feeling a bit locked in, we were pleased to have done a hard early morning ride around the wonderful promontory to Riserva Zingaro.  Knowing the way, we moved a bit faster & a bit further without the wind to buffet us - always very satisfying.  A bit unsettling however to be cycling in the peaceful coastal morning quiet, the only sound that of chirruping birds, and the peace is shattered by gun shots.  Looking up the side of the hill there’s a lone gunman, about 100m away staring down us crazy foreigners on bikes.  We were somewhat relieved to see it was a shotgun he held and there was an energetic hunting dog bounding through the low scrub between us and the gunman, in search of the unfortunate bird.  Still, cycling in a hunting range is a little disconcerting!  Kept our heads a little lower and hugged the cliff a little closer on the ride home. 

That was enough adventure for 1 day!  The rest of day included snoozes, updating photos & slide show albums, cat play, watching a movie, reading, cooking up a prawn and spinach pasta, a last shower before getting stinky on our several days crossing the Med and a few cups of tea.

via Scopello to San Vito Lo Capo

12/11 CASTELLAMMARE del GOLFO to SCOPELLO to SAN VITO LO CAPO

Rain & wind gave us another morning off exercise and despite a later wakeup, we spent the day exhausted looking for nanna naps until night fall.

The kids, always full of energy, fell out of Ed and soared their paper planes around madly in the gusty weather beneath the watch of the Ancient Temple.

Feeling rather seedy still, we broke the drive by stopping at gorgeous Scopello for an awakening swim & morning tea on a cute remote little covey beach.  We’re seeing it at it’s best being the only ones here - in summer, the Lonely Planet suggests to avoid it for the crowds.  Again, the kid’s shamed us with their energy and never-ending curiosity, making rocky kitchens and pizza ovens with the sensational array of decorated pebbles.

Knowing we wanted to park up for a week before the long journey home, we stopped for a top up shop and zig zagged several times between parts of the pointy promontory trying to find an open campsite.  

Eventually, we found a wee piece of heaven despite the skanky showers and no drinking water.  Saved however by the aroma of pine needles, the striking raw cliffs lit up behind the campsite and dotted with sweaty climbers, the volcanic jagged rock beach & azure waters gently prodded by divers and the surrounding extreme beauty for bike rides, runs and walks allowed our scrunched shoulders to slump peacefully.

Even Kel was blown away by the “ugly panamarmas.”   We made up a huge spaghetti bolognese and went to bed at last (at 2030!) with meditation stories & plans for simple about the campsite pleasures tomorrow.

Segesta

11/11 YEAR END MATHS EXAMS!!

The wind kept us in bed and we all woke together a little sombre but excited, aware of the big exams this morning.  The kitty cats trailed along behind us to the loo, to the wash up and were always waiting patiently outside the door.

Kel flogged it, pulling in an A+ for her 1 hour exam and Wil struggled through 2 hours to tally a strong A-. Job done, simulation over!  In celebration, we got the inside info on where to find good aranchine finding only one which we quartered & supplemented with a ham & cheese brioche.  Delicious cibo - no wonder Sicilians battle with their girth.

With only 10 days to go ‘til we take the ferry, we hit the road north for the jewel in Sicily’s crown, the NW tip stopping along the way for a peek at Segesta’s ancient Elymian (Trojans) 5^th century BC never completed Doric Temple.  

We pulled into the neighbouring hilltop town, and picked up some more celebration snacks (2 more cous-cous aranchine & an eggplant focaccia thingy that we balanced with a fresh, nutty salad) before driving to the temple car park with its astounding view where we ate with loud appreciative ‘mmm’s.  The finest & oldest temple we’ve seen so far in Europe is simply massive and stands erect, heavy and spectacular on the edge of a plateau in deep limestone canyon country.  It is made up of 36 monster columns and around its feet are undulating maroon coloured vineyards and dreamy looking spacious farmhouses. It is by far the prettiest part of Sicily we’ve seen.

Our night park looked ~ 1 km across a field toward the lit up ruin.  Alone and so satisfied, we settled in to read, learn about Troy, Homer and Greek column construction (Doric = heavy, simple, oldest, masculine; Ionic = from Ionic island stone, more ornate ‘female’ capitals ‘ with volutes used on smaller temples and Corinthian = the most decorative of all)…..and drink whisky.

An almighty storm roared through the night rocking Ed madly.  Despite knowing we were safe & sound, the seniors slept fitfully listening for threatening noises and between sleep cycles, planning & preparing for the complex journey home.